I’m taking a year off from school right now. For Christmas, to show my parents that I’m not completely wasting it and that I like them, I decided to make them a coffee table.

Live edge tables seem to be really popular. That makes a lot of sense because they are very nice. I decided to make one.

Around that time, my friend Marc tipped me off to the existence of some slabs of butternut and was kind enough to help me procure one. The whole table including the legs is made from that single slab (well, there are some dowels, so not the WHOLE table, but close enough).

The legs of the table are two squares made of posts milled from the slab, held together with mortise-and-tenon joints. I stained them a nearly opaque black to contrast with the natural top, and to kind of mimic the steel-legged live edge tables one often sees.

The table is finished with hand-rubbed pure tung oil. When getting ready to finish it, I read a whole bunch of stuff on different finishing techniques. As far as I can tell, everyone has a different way of doing things and believes strongly that theirs is the best and only way. That can’t be true, so I picked one of the simplest methods I could find: a hand-rubbed oil finish. I had toyed with the idea of finishing the table with a glassy two-part epoxy, but the toxicity scared me off in the end. Besides, I wanted the wood to look like wood, not plastic.

What I discovered in applying a pure tung oil finish is that it takes a long time. I put on at least a dozen coats, waiting a day or so for each to sink in. The advice that I had read – to apply the first coat mixed with a thinning agent of some kind – was probably pretty sound. Oh well. I’m sure I’ll learn more about finishing as I continue to build furniture.

In any case, this is what the finish looks like. I like it, it’s subtle and natural.

As you can see, the leg squares are attached to the table top with four off-centre dowels. I’ve used dowel joints before, and am pretty comfortable making them. This piece was built in a rush to meet the Christmas deadline, and so it made sense to go with a familiar technique (although, to be honest, the final finishing took place post-Christmas, and much of it was done by my mother. Merry Christmas Mom and Dad, I got you a chore!).

There are also some plastic feet on the bottom of the legs there, to help the table move across carpets and keep wood floors safe.

Here’s one of the leg squares press-fitted and members for a second being milled. Site 3 doesn’t have a complete set of woodworking tools (specifically a planer, jointer, and a bandsaw), and at the time that I was building this table, our table saw was being borrowed. So I was left to mill the posts for the leg squares using a circular saw and a belt sander, which was slow and messy, but kind of fun.

The leg squares are held together by mortise-and-tenon joints. Here I’m just getting ready to chisel out a mortise in one of the horizontal members (by the way, I made that mallet, too! At a great woodworking class at 3rd Ward in NYC.). I ended up changing the orientation of the mortise by 90 degrees from its marked position in the photo.

There aren’t any pictures of the chiseling process – I was having too much fun and forgot! Please accept this great video on how to make mortise-and-tenon joints as consolation:

Here’s a shot of the dowel joints before being sawn flush:

 

The Plan

Here are a couple of drawings that should describe all the necessary dimensions. Let me know if any info is missing!

 
Materials

  • 1 big ol’ slab of butternut (1 big ol’ == approximately 8′x14.5″x3″)
  • 4 screw-in plastic feet (hard plastic will slide across carpets better than a soft rubber)
  • 8 3/8″ diameter 3″ long dowels
  • Wood glue
  • 1 can pure tung oil
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Here’s a chair that I originally built last summer to sit on out on my new deck. It didn’t get much use then, though, as it broke basically right away. Not suddenly and catastrophically, but very soon after seeing some light use, my roommate noticed one of the main support members was cracked and well on its way to failure. So I brought the chair to Site 3 and (eventually) fixed it by replacing the buckling member with a pair of sturdy blocks. Here it is.

Camping Chair

It’s a simple two-piece cedar camping chair, based off the plan found here. It consists of two arcing planes that intersect each other, their top halves forming the seat and the back of the chair, and their bottom halves the legs.

In the original plan, nails or screws are recommended as fasteners in addition to glue but I elected to use dowels instead, so that the final product would be made entirely from wood. This had its disadvantages. The glue bond between the dowel and each of the slats ends up bearing a lot of weight as the force is in the same direction as the dowel’s longitudinal axis. This would probably be solved by ensuring that the holes for the dowels were as tight as possible, that the slats were firmly pressed against the legs (so that they don’t have anywhere to move along the dowel), and by having the holes for the dowels being blind on both sides. But all in all, having the dowels showing is pretty and it’s not really a huge structural issue.

Camping Chair

The four arcs were made with a basic circle-cutting router jig. All you need to do is cut out a piece of plywood to bolt your router to, attach that base to a rigid arm, and nail the other end of that arm into something. You end up with a router on a pivot. The radius of the circle that the arm describes is the distance from the pivot point to the router’s cutter (in this case the inner radius is 58″).

Camping Chair

The member that broke is the one that the seat half of the chair rested most heavily on. Cedar is quite soft and the slats are not particularly thick, and so the seat was digging into the support and simultaneously twisting it off of the dowels. As a replacement, I made two separate, hefty support blocks for either side. They’re butternut, which I happened to have a bit of from another project. Each block is attached to the leg by wood glue and a pair of perpendicular dowel joints. So far this seems to be a pretty strong configuration.

Camping Chair

My one concern is over how the butternut will fare outdoors once the summer rolls around. I threw a generous coat of Thompson’s Water Seal over everything just to be safe (the cedar doesn’t even really need this). We’ll see how things go!

The Plan

No Sketchup plans for this one, just some drawings! They should contain all the necessary information. The inner radius of the curves is r = 58″.

Materials

  • 11       cedar 1″x2″x19″ for back
  • 1        cedar 1″x2″x19″ for back spreader
  • 7        cedar 1″x2″x17″ for seat
  • 1        cedar 1″2″x17″ for seat spreader
  • 1        cedar 1″x2″x19.75″ for back support slat
  • 4        cedar 2″x6″x34″ for curved legs
  • 46        2″ long 1/2″ dowels
  • 2        2.75″x2.5″x2.125″ blocks hardwoord or cedar (for seat supports)
  • Waterproof wood glue
  • Thompson’s Water Seal
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Now you can purchase wonderful Hobgob products with Bitcoins, the experimental peer-to-peer digital currency.

Just send a message to btc AT hobgobeclectronics DOT com and I’ll reply with a price and my receiving address.

Digital currency! It’s like we’re in the FUTURE.

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Here’s a nice documentary about Site 3, made by our intern from Ryerson’s New Media program, Michelle.

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I’ll be talking about and demonstrating my BeatSneaks at the Royal Ontario Museum’s Institute for Contemporary Culture next week as a part of their Digital Artist Show and Tell series. You should come! You’ll get to try on a pair and make some music with your feet. I’ll be showing off the original BeatSneaks as well as two newer, wireless designs (like this), and talking about the build process as well as how my work fits into the tech-art world in general. This is happening while the gallery is running its new Fresh Flowers exhibit featuring the iPad paintings of David Hockney.

Here’s a link to the event page from the ROM.

November 11 at 7:00PM. Save the date!

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Continuing with my apparent quest to fill my new apartment entirely with furniture of my own making, here’s a coffee table that I just put together. I can’t say the idea was entirely mine, though. In fact, it was entirely Craft Magazine’s.

All’s you do is take an old typesetter’s drawer (which can be found in almost any junk shop), attach some legs to it, and plop a piece of glass on top. (Relatively) instant coffee table. You can fill it with knick knacks AND paddywhacks.

Glass can be had from any glass and mirror shop. Just give them the measurements of the drawer and they’ll cut out a piece for you. If you’re concerned that your drawer isn’t totally square, trace out its outline and give that to them instead. Get a piece that’s at least 1/4″ thick, since the tabletop will have to be able to support whatever’s on top of it and survive minor impacts without shattering.

In the Craft video, they weld the table legs together out of square tube steel, which looks great, but I don’t have easy access to a space to weld in (we can’t yet weld at Site 3 because of insurance restrictions) and so opted for pipes and flanges as legs instead. The cool thing about using pipes and flanges is that, since they’re threaded, each leg’s height can be adjusted to account for an uneven floor.

The bottom of the typesetter’s drawer is made out of fairly thin MDF. I didn’t want to have to put screws or bolts through that material to attach the flanges and have them poking through to the top side, so I attached a layer of 1/2″ plywood to the bottom with wood glue and brad nails. The dividers separating the three main compartments of the drawer are wide enough to sink nails into and solidly fasten the plywood to the drawer while the glue sets.


Also, the steel pipes that I bought came with these orange plastic covers on either end to protect the threads from damage. These conveniently also protect everything else (i.e. the floor) from the threads. The bright orange might offend some people, I suppose, but I like it.

Materials and Measurements

  • 1       typesetter’s drawer
  • 1       piece of glass cut to the same size as the drawer
  • 1       piece of 1/2″ plywood cut to the same size as the drawer
  • 4       3/4″ steel pipe flanges
  • 4       3/4″ diameter, 18″ long threaded steel pipes
  • 16     screws
  • 1″      Brad nails or finishing nails
  • Wood glue
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So I just moved into a new place with a sweet deck and decided very quickly that we were going to need something to hang out around and eat on.

Having seen this picnic table design, I built something that looks similar, but incorporates a few modifications. First off, I didn’t use cedar, because that stuff is expensive. Pretty, but expensive. I chose instead to use plain old spruce – non-pressure-treated – since it was cheap and with a good seal should last long enough in wet weather.

I wanted there to be plenty of legroom underneath the table, so I chose not to use the typical diagonal support beams that most picnic tables have. To make sure it would be stable, I used 2x6s for the entire thing. You could get away with thinner lumber for the tabletop, of course, but no matter. Using the 2x6s makes everything very sturdy, if also very heavy. There are no supports other than the legs in this table, and yet there is very little wobble. All it takes is some big pieces of wood, a few well-tightened 3/4″ bolts, and a generous distribution of deck screws.

The mitred border is held together with deck screws and wood glue. Two 3″ screws in recessed holes pull the joint together and the glue provides some additional strength. The screw holes are filled in with dowels to conceal them.

I bought enough wood to make matching benches out of 2x4s, but as we already have some perfectly good wooden folding chairs out there, those can wait. In fact, folding chairs are a little more versatile and a lot less unwieldy than benches, so they may just never get built.

Here’s the Sketchup model, if you’d like to take a closer look: picnictable.skp

Materials and Measurements

  • 4       32″x2″x6″ spruce boards, ends cut parallel to each other at ~64 degrees
  • 6       34″x2″x6″ spruce boards, ends cut symmetrically at 45 degrees
  • 4       60″x2″x6″ spruce boards
  • 4       3/4″x6″ metal bolts
  • 4       3/4″ hex nuts and washers
  • CIL Semi-transparent Exterior Wood Stain (or equivalent deck stain/sealer. This is important because non-pressure-treated spruce, while cheap, won’t fare too well in wet weather unsealed.)
  • Lots of 3″ deck screws (well, 72)
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Videos of people making things are the best!

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Join me once again at Site 3 on August 24th for another circuit prototyping class.

It will be just like this, but much less scary!

From the event description:

“Interested in learning to build electronic circuits, but don’t know where to start? This is the course for you! In this introductory-level course you’ll learn how to read a schematic and how to use it to build a working prototype. During the course you’ll build the Atari Punk Console, a circuit that produces sounds reminiscent of retro video games. We’ll also discuss some basic theory of how the circuit works, and we’ll do some basic “circuit bending” by tinkering with the design and see how our changes affect the circuit’s behaviour.”

Go register right now!

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Site 3 just got a two-axis three-axis, full-size, CNC mill! Oooooh:

This in addition to our trio of lathes and table-top manual mill that we got just a few weeks ago:

Tools are great!

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